The 275 won't start, I turn the key and starter does not engage and the engine doesn't turn over. The battery checked out fine and the horn works, but none of the come on nor does the electric fuel pump cycle. All the fuses look ok. Any suggestions for a backyard mechanic on what to look for next?
Thanks,
Greg
275 electrical, won't start
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Greg Brendel
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- Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 10:39 pm
Greg,
There are two places that can cause this ; the ignition switch is a common weak spot, and next the starter solenoid on the starter motor.
The switch is pretty expensive, but easilly replaced without taking the whole assembly out of the dash (two screws).
The solenoid is a bit harder to replace so check each out with a meter before replacing and save some $.
Also, be sure it is not something simple like a loose or blown fuse in the starter circuit. Jim
There are two places that can cause this ; the ignition switch is a common weak spot, and next the starter solenoid on the starter motor.
The switch is pretty expensive, but easilly replaced without taking the whole assembly out of the dash (two screws).
The solenoid is a bit harder to replace so check each out with a meter before replacing and save some $.
Also, be sure it is not something simple like a loose or blown fuse in the starter circuit. Jim
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Greg Brendel
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 10:39 pm
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Michael Bayer
- Posts: 699
- Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 7:22 am
Greg: I don't have the wiring diagram for a 275, but I know the slightly later cars have a master relay (two actually) that control much of your missing functions. They are on the fuse board, I would begin with what controls all the missing functions (fuel pump, lights and starter - which sure sounds like a master relay or a wire to or from it (a ground), rather than working each of the no gos. Good luck!
Michael J. Bayer
330GT s/n 9727
365GTC4 s/n 14943
Dino Spider s/n 1193
330GT s/n 9727
365GTC4 s/n 14943
Dino Spider s/n 1193
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Greg Brendel
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Rudy van Daalen Wetters
- Posts: 1206
- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm
Greg,
How did you test the battery? That interior light staying on all the time is a slow death knell for a battery. I usually use a load test meter to check a battery's capacity for power. The fact that the headlights don't come on suggest to me that there is power to function the smaller items but not enough for the heavier amperage circuits. Also, I have seen battery cables that look beautiful on the outside yet when I peeled off the cover, there was nightmare of corrosion inside. I learned this one the hard way after replacing the battery three times. Maybe you could test the voltage delivered to the starter.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
How did you test the battery? That interior light staying on all the time is a slow death knell for a battery. I usually use a load test meter to check a battery's capacity for power. The fact that the headlights don't come on suggest to me that there is power to function the smaller items but not enough for the heavier amperage circuits. Also, I have seen battery cables that look beautiful on the outside yet when I peeled off the cover, there was nightmare of corrosion inside. I learned this one the hard way after replacing the battery three times. Maybe you could test the voltage delivered to the starter.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
Ignition Switch Problem Resolved
Greg,
The symptoms you describe are identical to a problem I had a short time ago with the 330 GTC. I replaced the Bosch ignition switch and the car started immediately.
The switch is also used on BMW 2002s. I bought the whole interlock and ignition switch assembly for $113 and just used the switch (it's on the back of the keyed cylinder, so you can still use your original key switch).
Do a search on this site for "Ignition Switch Problem" and it will take you to the dialogue and all the helpful comments provided by those on this site.
Good Luck
Call 310-387-7471 if you have questions.
I'm on my way to Monterey but can be reached.
Chuck
The symptoms you describe are identical to a problem I had a short time ago with the 330 GTC. I replaced the Bosch ignition switch and the car started immediately.
The switch is also used on BMW 2002s. I bought the whole interlock and ignition switch assembly for $113 and just used the switch (it's on the back of the keyed cylinder, so you can still use your original key switch).
Do a search on this site for "Ignition Switch Problem" and it will take you to the dialogue and all the helpful comments provided by those on this site.
Good Luck
Call 310-387-7471 if you have questions.
I'm on my way to Monterey but can be reached.
Chuck
1967 330 GTC
S/N: 10539
S/N: 10539
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Greg Brendel
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 10:39 pm
The problem ended up being the wires leading into the fuse panel. The ignition switch checked out fine so I turned to the expert, James at Norwoods. His advice was to "jiggle and wiggle" those 4 wires and that woke it up. During a 50 miles drive last nite it did die a couple times so I am going to go back in and check all the contacts. I was going to fly James from Dallas to MN to do a PPI on the car before I got it but he said "just buy the damn thing!" and it turned out to be the best PPI I have had:).
Greg
Greg
The square terminal block (on the fuse board) where the heavy wires conect can be a problem as there are many different metals involved. The wires are copper, the block is brass, some screws are steel, etc. So corossion is always a problem in this junction. Remove each wire twist any loose strands tight and tin with a good rosin core solder. Re install and tighten securely. Re check or tighten on a regular basis. Even if you do not have a problem now, this easy repair can save many hours of down time on the road. Jim
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Greg Brendel
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- Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 10:39 pm