365 GT 2 + 2 Electric Window Cables

grantp · Post by **grantp** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:14 pm

Does anyone have a photo or diagram showing the electric window winder cable layout inside the door for a 365 GT 2 +2 . The painter took the mechanism out and has lost the diagram of how to put it back together.

Dan Sands · Post by **Dan Sands** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:14 am

You may be able to get some info from the pics on Tom's restoration diary 11-19-07
Dan

Post by **tyang** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:44 am

I just did the window mechanisms in a 400, but I don't think they are the same. Does yours have spring tensioners, or are solidly fixed to the pulleys?

I also have some diagrams I drew for my notes if you think this mechanism is similar to yours.

Tom

zac · Post by **zac** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:22 pm

I will take a picture and attach my diagram when I get home, the 365 doors have a tensioning spring and are a real pain in the A@#. plan on spending a few hours getting it adjusted and working right. The real pain is getting the clocking of the spool just right when you put the motor in so that there is the right amount of tension both in the all the way up position and full down. Also make sure that the window itself moves freely in the tracks without being attached to the regulator so the motor does not work to hard.

Zac

TOMKIZER · Post by **TOMKIZER** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:01 pm

Tom's 400 photos above are correct for a 365 GT 2+2 also. I solved the cable winder orientation problem when I changed my cables by:
1) measuring the pulley positions on either door relative to the motor/gearbox winder pulley,
2) installing the 4 upper pulleys from the two doors (the removable ones), the tensioner, and the motor/transmission on a 4' x 4' sheet of 1/4" plywood in the proper relative positions with the old cable relatively slack free,
3) running the winder up and down with a battery jumper, noting the limits of the cable on the winder/unwinder drum,
4) marking the corresponding full up and full down positions of two pieces of tape stuck to the cable where the window-lift cable-clamps attach to the cable, and
5) replacing the old cable with new galvanized cable that I bought at Home Depot.
6) For the other door, install the other door cable system on the other side of the 1/4" plywood. The holes are already drilled for attachment.

It made everything easier to rebuild and test the system on a fixture, then simply transfer it to the door.
I've got pictures of everything if anyone wants to send me a PM with your email address. In my photos, you can see the relative positions of the cables to each other as they cross and which tensioner goes where and in what orientation. By the way, my tensioner springs were way too stiff to allow them to control the tension. I did it by adjusting tension in the door while running the windows up and down.
Good luck and let me know if you need any photos.
Tom Kizer

365gtc/4 · Post by **365gtc/4** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:11 am

Grant
I did a "how to" on electric windows for a C4 on www.365gtc4.com See http://www.365gtc4.com/Forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=295

I hope that helps. It might be similar for a Queen.

Good luck.
John