hose offered by summit
is Earl's Pro-lite 350 Hose
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... te350.html
365 GT 2+2 brakes
brake lines
yessir
mr tom is correct
I am looking to replace some hoses
including vacuum lines
and might consider something other than
'genuine' Ferrari parts
like the Earl's for example
I would NOT consider making my own Brake Hoses
or use any thing except genuine Ferrari Brake hoses
(unless they were genuinely unavailable)
or maybe an authorized reproduction like from Ferrari UK
mr tom is correct
I am looking to replace some hoses
including vacuum lines
and might consider something other than
'genuine' Ferrari parts
like the Earl's for example
I would NOT consider making my own Brake Hoses
or use any thing except genuine Ferrari Brake hoses
(unless they were genuinely unavailable)
or maybe an authorized reproduction like from Ferrari UK
bled
finished bleeding brakes today (400i)
hoses are not blocked :)
(one way valve on bleeder hose was!)
Pedal feel has improved (somewhat),
and action seems a little better, as well
(though 'excessive' effort is still required)
one thing I learned today:
the ATE Calipers on my car have THREE (3)
Bleeder Fittings per Caliper
(the lower circuit has 2
one inner, one outer)
the upper circuit has only one
I had overlooked the additional
(inner) lower Bleeder fitting
on the the first go-around...
(easy to do, as it is somewhat hidden)
good thing I went back
and bled the Brakes
a second time!
this little item is not made clear
in the Workshop Manual
and I did not pick up on this
from the Parts Manual, either
so now the Brake System has all fresh new Fluid
(I used DOT 4 BTW)
and I have peace of mind,
knowing the Brakes are OK
the Differential is next...
hoses are not blocked :)
(one way valve on bleeder hose was!)
Pedal feel has improved (somewhat),
and action seems a little better, as well
(though 'excessive' effort is still required)
one thing I learned today:
the ATE Calipers on my car have THREE (3)
Bleeder Fittings per Caliper
(the lower circuit has 2
one inner, one outer)
the upper circuit has only one
I had overlooked the additional
(inner) lower Bleeder fitting
on the the first go-around...
(easy to do, as it is somewhat hidden)
good thing I went back
and bled the Brakes
a second time!
this little item is not made clear
in the Workshop Manual
and I did not pick up on this
from the Parts Manual, either
so now the Brake System has all fresh new Fluid
(I used DOT 4 BTW)
and I have peace of mind,
knowing the Brakes are OK
the Differential is next...
Fest,
I’m quite curious about the differential, so please let me know how it goes.
Shaunghnessy told me when I was at his shop, that the differential gears are difficult to come by. I have been as careful as I can ever since to keep “jerky loads” to a minimum.
My shop manual has a detailed description of how to set the differential up using special tools that simulate the side plates. I looks like a real pain. I have heard of shops that manufacture Ring and Pinions – but I think this is a pricy way to go.
About the brakes – I went through the bleeding process (all three bleeders/caliper) after I put in the new lines, my daughter in the car pushing the brake, Castrol LMA. When I was finished, the pedal was solid as a rock. The effort on the road for round town braking is fairly light – same as our XJ6. Also same as the XJ6, hard braking requires a significant push – (unlike an American care with lots of assist.) When I do stomp on the brakes hard, the braking is really good, and I can push my 60 series AVSs right to the edge of adhesion with good control. I have heard that the brakes are not adequate for the cars weight and speed potential, which could be true. I have never tried to bring it down from 150 in a short distance.
Good luck with the Diff.
Aaron / C4
I’m quite curious about the differential, so please let me know how it goes.
Shaunghnessy told me when I was at his shop, that the differential gears are difficult to come by. I have been as careful as I can ever since to keep “jerky loads” to a minimum.
My shop manual has a detailed description of how to set the differential up using special tools that simulate the side plates. I looks like a real pain. I have heard of shops that manufacture Ring and Pinions – but I think this is a pricy way to go.
About the brakes – I went through the bleeding process (all three bleeders/caliper) after I put in the new lines, my daughter in the car pushing the brake, Castrol LMA. When I was finished, the pedal was solid as a rock. The effort on the road for round town braking is fairly light – same as our XJ6. Also same as the XJ6, hard braking requires a significant push – (unlike an American care with lots of assist.) When I do stomp on the brakes hard, the braking is really good, and I can push my 60 series AVSs right to the edge of adhesion with good control. I have heard that the brakes are not adequate for the cars weight and speed potential, which could be true. I have never tried to bring it down from 150 in a short distance.
Good luck with the Diff.
Aaron / C4
not that deep-
I am NOT going the rebuild the diff
(at least not planning on it any time soon)
I am just going to chage the 'juice'
you can follow THAT thread elsewhere
suffice to say I will be using LS 80W-90
which should be commonly avaiable
(at least according to the local 'lube guru)
no 10W-50 to be had anywhere, however
(at least not planning on it any time soon)
I am just going to chage the 'juice'
you can follow THAT thread elsewhere
suffice to say I will be using LS 80W-90
which should be commonly avaiable
(at least according to the local 'lube guru)
no 10W-50 to be had anywhere, however