Let a friend drive my car over to see his new Alfa 1974 GTV that he got on ebay the other day while I followed behind in his other car, (an automatic BMW). I noticed something that Tom mentioned to me years ago when I originally picked my car up from Horseless Carrige where is was stored after it came over from Europe, (that is another story in another place on this site.)
The brake lights on my Series 1 330GT only came on when the brake pedal was fully depressed. Light braking does not engage the lights. This seems a bit dangerous to me when I noticed it in the follow car.
Anyone else dealt with this issue? Is the only solution a relay?
Best,
Yale
Brake Lights
just adjust?
is not the switch adjustable?
that is, can one move it in (or out)
to adjust at what point the brake pedal lever
makes contact?
(or breaks contact, as the case may be)
or are the earlier cars set up differently?
that is, can one move it in (or out)
to adjust at what point the brake pedal lever
makes contact?
(or breaks contact, as the case may be)
or are the earlier cars set up differently?
According to the part book, it's a hydraulic switch, actuated solely by the pressure in the master cylinder. It screws onto the end of the master cylinder (Tav 31 of the early parts book).
So I would guess that the switch is bad.
BTW, the switch on the later 330 GTs is mounted on the brake equalizer. I found that a VW bug brake switch was a perfect replacement.
So I would guess that the switch is bad.
BTW, the switch on the later 330 GTs is mounted on the brake equalizer. I found that a VW bug brake switch was a perfect replacement.
-
John Vardanian
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 12:13 am
- Location: San Francisco Area
Yale,
If that switch is anything like what was used on the 250's (on the master cylinder) you're out of luck as it is not being reproduced.
Mine went bad and I had to modify it to accept a switch from another car. The replacement switch came from NAPA and the electrodes were such that I didn't have to modify the wiring terminals.
If the problem is indeed with the switch I can tell you the routine I went through.
Incidentally, the color combination of your 330GT is one of the most attractive I've seen.
John Vardanian
If that switch is anything like what was used on the 250's (on the master cylinder) you're out of luck as it is not being reproduced.
Mine went bad and I had to modify it to accept a switch from another car. The replacement switch came from NAPA and the electrodes were such that I didn't have to modify the wiring terminals.
If the problem is indeed with the switch I can tell you the routine I went through.
Incidentally, the color combination of your 330GT is one of the most attractive I've seen.
John Vardanian
-
John Vardanian
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 12:13 am
- Location: San Francisco Area
The piece would be pretty hard to replicate. It is made of three basic pieces: a machined "bolt", a Bakelite section and the internals, i.e., spring, diaphragm, points, etc. They are all pressed together.
It is a lot easier to tack on a (NAPA) pressure switch at the end of the Ferrari switch. The end product is unsightly, but no one sees it. You simply gut the Ferrari switch and strip it to the machined bolt piece then solder an ordinary switch to the end. There is a little bit of bushing involved, but all in all it is pretty simple.
John Vardanian
It is a lot easier to tack on a (NAPA) pressure switch at the end of the Ferrari switch. The end product is unsightly, but no one sees it. You simply gut the Ferrari switch and strip it to the machined bolt piece then solder an ordinary switch to the end. There is a little bit of bushing involved, but all in all it is pretty simple.
John Vardanian
Greetings... My switch went bad several years ago and there were no replacements. My car is an early 330GT (5769) and the switch is part of the end of the master cylinder. I got a bolt the same threads as the end plug of the cylinder and shortened it to make up a new plug. I then drilled this for 1/8 npt and used a commonly available switch. You want a switch that closes at a lower than usual pressure. These are available from Ron Francis Wireworks (www.wire-works.com). While you're at it, replace your tail light bulbs with Bright Bulbs from them as well. Much brighter than standard and not as expensive or problematic as LED's. I've found an equivalent switch at Kragens. It is Niehoff # 23808. Don't know what it fits but it does require a change in wiring terminals.
re: brake light switch
My brake light switch failed recently and I obtained my replacement from tanner ("ferrarisexchange.com"). It did include a thread adapter, so I will have to live with the 10 points the judges knock off if they unscrew the banjo, but hey, it works great.
It was not prohibitive, either.
Too bad that BrianK is no longer working at FPE, he was quite knowledgable about our cars.
thx, luke
1963 250 GTE, with hydraulic brake light switch (how silly is that !)
Next project: window winder mechanism. My wire (?) just snapped after I began turning the handle the wrong way ! I just did that project on my 74 Spider, so it can't be that hard.
It was not prohibitive, either.
Too bad that BrianK is no longer working at FPE, he was quite knowledgable about our cars.
thx, luke
1963 250 GTE, with hydraulic brake light switch (how silly is that !)
Next project: window winder mechanism. My wire (?) just snapped after I began turning the handle the wrong way ! I just did that project on my 74 Spider, so it can't be that hard.
Ex 1963 Ferrari 250 GTE, 99 Modena 360, 11 Maserati QPorte S, 08 merc gl550, 67 Cadillac Coupe DeVille Convertible, 2008 Ducati Hypermotard S, 2006 MV Agusta Brutale S, 1991 Ducati 907i.e.
window crank
Hi Luke,
I've been down that road with the window cranks!
Tom
I've been down that road with the window cranks!
Tom