Radiator Time

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Trainsplanesandautos
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Radiator Time

Post by Trainsplanesandautos »

Well the heat is on in Texas and my 365gt is suffering heat stroke. Using a Infared thermometer I have determined the Radiator is restricted, the first indication of a problem was the fans did not come on until temps were above 195. It looks to me that the core of the radiator is original. So I need to get it cleaned or have the core replaced. I have looking into to core and realize it is a different fin type than a normal core. Is it possible to get a original looking core. If so is there a supplier so I can order in advance or tell the shop. Or should I just get the radiator cleaned and go with that.

Also does the radiator and air conditioning coil come of the car as a single piece or can the air conditioning can the air conditioning coil stay in the car and connected to the lines?
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tyang
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by tyang »

A classic case of radiator restriction is when the inlet temperature is high and the outlet temp is low when tested with an IR thermometer, and yet the temperature gauge is still running hot. Some people will "rod out" a radiator, but if one of the tanks have to be removed to do this, you might as well replace it with a new core. What you need is a horizontal continuous fin radiator core:
Image
This is correct.

The more common one is incorrect for Vintage Ferraris:
Image
This one is wrong.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053
John Vardanian
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by John Vardanian »

At the risk of sounding dumb, where does the heated water enter the radiator, the top or the bottom?

FWIW, rodding the original radiator makes a big difference in cooling, but if the fins are untidy, I would replace the core as Tom suggested.

john
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by 250GT »

"Well the heat is on in Texas and my 365gt is suffering heat stroke."

it cannot be a mistake to recore an rediator.

But to have less STRESS-- beter say absolut stressless- -in stop and go, I use for severs years Evans cooling.
The gauges goes up like using normal Water/Glycol fluid.
the electric fan starts as normal at 85 degrees .
even when you open at 120 degrees the cap with running engine nothing can be seen.
you see some smoke like a sigarette coming out ,but NO dagerous boiling fluid.
but it cost a bitt:
I paid 360€ for 15 liter three years ago about 500 USD.
it can be used for the rest of the cars life.
You must remove ALL fluid before refilling, only 3% old cooling may rest.

best

C.
250GT
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by 250GT »

Evans cooling

C.
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tyang
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by tyang »

John Vardanian wrote:At the risk of sounding dumb, where does the heated water enter the radiator, the top or the bottom?

FWIW, rodding the original radiator makes a big difference in cooling, but if the fins are untidy, I would replace the core as Tom suggested.

john
No dumb questions here. The heated water from the engine comes into the radiator at the top, and returns to the engine from the bottom.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053
DWR46
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by DWR46 »

I am good with recoring a radiator on a Ferrari, but be very careful. On most of the 1960s Ferraris, there are a series of baffles in the top and bottom tanks of the radiator that direct water flows. Many times, when these radiators are recored, the shops, not understanding the purpose of the baffles,remove them. Then the cars never cool correctly anymore. The actual water flow on many of the Ferrari radiators of this period is split into three vertical columns by the baffles. So the water first goes down one third of the radiator, then up the center third and finally down the last third, making a total of three vertical passes.
John Vardanian
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by John Vardanian »

Thanks Dyke. Do you know if these baffles exist in the narrower early radiators?

john
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DWR46
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by DWR46 »

John: My memory is fuzzy on the earlier radiators, but I do not think they have the same baffling or multipass water flows.
John Vardanian
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by John Vardanian »

Thanks Dyke, and the top and bottom caps in the narrower radiators are pinched and soldered. In the wider radiators of the 60's the tanks are just soldered on, so it would be easy enough to remove the top cap at home, rod the tubes and solder it back on. I did this some years ago.

john
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by John Vardanian »

A question... does the black paint help or hinder the cooling of the radiator? I have had mine re-cored and am thinking about not painting the front panel. Thanks.

john
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Lowell
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by Lowell »

In general, black radiates heat faster than white. It also absorbs heat faster than white.
But if the black is hotter than its surroundings, it radiates faster than it absorbs, and so there is a net cooling effect.
Lowell Brown
1966 Gold 330 2+2 Series II
John Vardanian
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by John Vardanian »

Thanks Lowell, what about the coating effect of the paint itself, does an un-coated surface allow the heat within to escape faster than a coated surface?

john
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by Lowell »

John Vardanian wrote:Thanks Lowell, what about the coating effect of the paint itself, does an un-coated surface allow the heat within to escape faster than a coated surface?

john
If the surface were black somehow, it might be very slightly better.

It is true that heat must be conducted across the thickness of the paint which requires a drop in temperature,
but the paint layer is so thin that I do not think that this could be a very large effect.
Lowell Brown
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DWR46
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Re: Radiator Time

Post by DWR46 »

John: Paint is an insulator. The less paint you put on the fins, the better the cooling. I always paint the tanks and side panels, but only use a 'dusting" on the fins.
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