Steering knuckle

[Suebian330]

Dear all,

I try to disassemble my steering knuckles because there is to much clearence. But there is no direct access to press the pivot out because of the nose piece for the rubber damper. I do not want to use raw forces or burner heat in fear of damaging something. I assume it is a cone fit. Any hints very welcome.

Dieter

[250GT]

Dieter,
you already took off the nut of the king pin

put a standard low nut , and put a solid piece of steel tube in between the koni attachment and the nut.

this force should be enough and you need no special tools I think.

Yes the king pin is conical on top see be low.

c.

[John Vardanian]

Hi Dieter, I do not have a better picture, but you can see that piece here.

[Suebian330]

John,

thanks for your reply. Your pic is good enough to see the structure. I will try this way carefully (in fear to bend the rubber bump attatchment) I wonder about the purpose of the small hole ending at the cone. For greasing the cone fit it makes no sense. It must be an annulus for the grease nipple leading forther down in the king pin. But I will see when mine is apart. Thanks again.

Dieter

[250GT]

John,

thanks for your reply. Your pic is good enough to see the structure. I will try this way carefully (in fear to bend the rubber bump attatchment) I wonder about the purpose of the small hole ending at the cone. For greasing the cone fit it makes no sense. It must be an annulus for the grease nipple leading forther down in the king pin. But I will see when mine is apart. Thanks again.

Dieter

Dieter,
That cone is a centrepoint for a lathe you can found one on the orther side too.
has nothing to do with a grease nipple.

John.
You´re a very brave man to disassemble the front suspension without removing the heavy spring under the Shock Spring Saddle.
this spring is missing on the overview pic above,
probebly still in the front spring cup.
educative a mistake.
only joking.

ciao
C.

[John Vardanian]

Hi Cornelis, I was unable to separate the "C" spring from the spring bucket, so left things in tact. Hopefully this will not cause a problem during reassembly. Thanks.

john

[250GT]

Hi Cornelis, I was unable to separate the "C" spring from the spring bucket, so left things in tact. Hopefully this will not cause a problem during reassembly. Thanks.

john

John,
That was a superhuman suspect !!!!
it will be not a problem to reassembly .but you can no not check the free movement of the arms.
there must be some light resistance by moving up and down.
the big copper spacers can not really good installed.
that spring MUST get out for the right reassembly IMO
maybe Dyke can say in better UNDERSTANDABLE englisch something about this issue
I am not superhuman
Pas de soucis ( no worries)
good luck

C.

[John Vardanian]

Cornelis, I didn't see any copper washers tunder the springs.

Dyke, help!

john

[250GT]

John,
I means the big 8 copper rings left from the kingpin in the pic above.
these have also a grease channel in them.
You must adjust these:some times you need bigger ones or sand them for the right way
to reassembly.
the whole construction must be moveable by hand and not drop down by itself!

hope this helps
but with the big spring inside you have no change to check.

Cornelis

[DWR46]

John: I think Cornelius has described things correctly in his last email. The spring seats are in your photo. It is common for the snap rings to NOT come out of the spring pockets after many years. Cornelius is just stating that the best way to set the copper shim clearances on the A-Arms is with no spring installed so you can check the movement and pre-load on the bushings.

[Suebian330]

Cornelis,

there was some misunderstanding. I did not mean the centerbore of king pin I meant the detail in the pic below (from John).

King pin detail.jpg (3.96 KiB) Viewed 10172 times

King pin detail.jpg (3.96 KiB) Viewed 10172 times

For your discussion of "Seegerring"- removal. (Do not know the english term). Here is the right tool. For removal you need some hand training at the gym or you need a second person to assist with hand force. The plier is long enough for 2-hand operation. Length about 17 inch.

Seegerringzange.JPG (155.87 KiB) Viewed 10172 times

Dieter

[afwrench]

Dear all,

I try to disassemble my steering knuckles because there is to much clearence. But there is no direct access to press the pivot out because of the nose piece for the rubber damper. I do not want to use raw forces or burner heat in fear of damaging something. I assume it is a cone fit. Any hints very welcome.

Dieter

Hi Dieter, I see how it would be impossible to use a standard tool for this. How about using a bearing separator? Perhaps some heat from a heat gun rather than a torch. Good luck ,Mike

[Suebian330]

Hi Mike,
I do not know exactly which tool you mean with "bearing seperator". Do you mean the fork type wedged tool to seperate the ball joints of steering linkag?

Dieter

[250GT]

Cornelis,

there was some misunderstanding. I did not mean the centerbore of king pin I meant the detail in the pic below (from John).

The attachment King pin detail.jpg is no longer available

The attachment King pin detail.jpg is no longer available

For your discussion of "Seegerring"- removal. (Do not know the english term). Here is the right tool. For removal you need some hand training at the gym or you need a second person to assist with hand force. The plier is long enough for 2-hand operation. Length about 17 inch.

The attachment Seegerringzange.JPG is no longer available

Dieter

Dieter,
this" seegerring is called in England:spring-retaining-clip
I do not know the American name either.
They use often different words for the same parts .
I have mainly some expierance on the pre 1960 F-cars.
the kingpins are AFAIK the same for 250GT and 330 GT.
the top nut on top is often a grease cap reservoir with grease-nipple on top( 250GT)
they don´t have this knuckle.
the grease comes out at the lateral hole this can be tested by pressing air on the top hole.
and feed nr 36.

P.S you started an interesting thread here.

C.

[330GT]

Hi Mike,
I do not know exactly which tool you mean with "bearing seperator". Do you mean the fork type wedged tool to seperate the ball joints of steering linkag?

Dieter

Used to separate by assembling in a slot and then screwing together so the wedges separate what you want. It is also used to support a part at a certain place so it can be pressed off.