Questions: Heater valve, steering box fluid, vapor lock?

[Zanny1]

In response to #3:
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the old yellow fuel lines were swelling internally restricting gas flow under the heat. Ran fine when cold and lost power when hot. Replaced the lines and all is perfect. As dyke mentioned what happens when the aux pump is on?I was able to turn on the electric pump when I had this problem and the car would run fine which meant the fuel needed was not enough .

An interesting theory, as my car does the same thing. I tested the mechanical fuel pump today, and it appears to work fine. Drove around the neighborhood and could not duplicate the conditions that left me stranded last week. Got to think maybe it is the fuel lines, although I don't really know how to test. If I drive the car and get it hot enough to die on me, it's hardly a position to be in to perform the fuel line test. Hmmmm- this is going to take some creative thinking.
I did speak to a shop in the Phoenix area about this. The owner stated that the fuel formulations with ethanol do strange things to rubber parts - he's had several vintage Ferraris with collapsed fuel lines, gummed up accelerator pumps, and the like. He recommended replacing the fuel lines with modern materials not effected by ethanol.
So the mystery continues. Thanks for the tip as this may be the problem.

[tyang]

HI Mike,

The new yellow fuel lines seem to be working fine with modern fuels. There was a yellow line that was used in the 80s that seems to be dissolving from the inside out. You can spot this bad line by the brown tar residue oozing out from the seams of the casing. This line also has more of a matte finish compared to the new yellow line that has a shiny finish.

Tom

[tyang]

Here are some pictures of the bad line:

Here's the new line next to the old one. Notice the different in shiny finish.


Tom

[Steve Meltzer]

Unfortunately, I shot these photos about a year ago and have since put the obstructing air cleaner back on the car, so I have no good shots from the left side. Also, I have no idea if a 330 GTC is set up anything like a 250 anything. There are a number of folks in the group who aren't as monolithic about this as I. (Dyke, Tom, Kerry and many others) I can also send you the page from the parts manual if you'd like, just let me know and I might be able to post it as well. steve

[tyang]

Thanks Steve.
Heater valve issue solved.... I am embarrassed to admit that the cable was not fully closing the valve. Diaphragm was just fine. Disassembled and cleaned everything, bench tested, then upon installation noted that the operating cable wasn't pulling the lever fully closed. Now if I could figure out where/how the valve was mounted, as the assy just sits above the steering box but is not affixed to anything. Internet pictures aren't good enough to show details.

Could you send me a picture of your heater valve? I have access to a couple of GTEs that might help, but first we have to determine if you have the right one.

Tom

[Zanny1]

HI Mike,

The new yellow fuel lines seem to be working fine with modern fuels. There was a yellow line that was used in the 80s that seems to be dissolving from the inside out. You can spot this bad line by the brown tar residue oozing out from the seams of the casing. This line also has more of a matte finish compared to the new yellow line that has a shiny finish.

Tom

Yup - mine look just like the ones pictured, Tom. I took them off, and the ID appears OK (at room temp). I see there are replacement lines available, by the inch (very costly), and my question is..... can I remove the old fittings and re-use them?
Thanks

[Timo]

..... can I remove the old fittings and re-use them?

Yes, but buy some replacement ferrules also as the originals may not fit the new hose O.D. (= larger)

[tyang]

Hi Mike,

No, the old ferules will not work with the new lines. The usual suspects that supply the lines will be happy to sell you the correct ferules.

Tom