POR 15

[250GT]

Working on two PF-coupe fuel tanks serie 1 &2 1958 and 1960
bought in the US the 2x cleaning set POR15.
somebody already used this ?
is there any negative info around this product ?
Tanks are a bit rusty in side, and maybe little pittholes occur.
Laying around since the mid 90th in my trash.
thanks

Second question can some body explain the use of the 1960 tank with the bypass air tube?
1958 tank comes without this item
Look at the FILLUP pipe first……..
Same construction can be found on GTE I think.

C.

[250GT]

two pics more

C.

[peterp]

bought in the US the 2x cleaning set POR15.
somebody already used this ?
is there any negative info around this product ?
Tanks are a bit rusty in side, and maybe little pittholes occur.
Laying around since the mid 90th in my trash.

I bought a POR15 kit a while ago, but haven't had an occasion to use it yet. When I was shopping for it I happened upon a review (I think on Amazon) that had some great tips (at least I assume they are great tips since I haven't used it myself). I can't find the review now, but I cut & pasted them into a file at the time and have pasted them below. POR15 has a great reputation from everything I've heard.

Again, I can't really validate these tips, but seems like they might be a good supplement to instructions:

POR 15 Tips from Amazon Review
A few key points when using this product. Part preparation is key.
1. Use a wire brush to remove loose rust and flaking paint. No need to grind the rust off part or remove all rust prior to painting the part. The paint sticks to rust.
2. Use marine clean and a sponge to clean the part of oil, dirt and grease. Wash the part with water and dry it.
3. Apply POR-15 "metal prep" liquid using a sponge or brush to coat the surface. The instructions state to keep the part "wet" for 25 minutes. I did this by repeatedly brushing the metal prep liquid on the part. Let the piece air dry. The finished dry part will have a slightly dull gray appearance. Rinse the part with clean water and dry. Metal prep etches the surface and allows the paint to adhere to the surface. Do not proceed to the next step until part is completely dry.
4. Do not shake the paint can. Open the POR-15 paint can carefully wearing the latex gloves and have paper or cardboard under the can. If the paint drips on your bench or floor or your hand it will stay there for a long time. Stir the paint with a plastic or wood stick being careful not to splash. Do not shake the can.
5. Transfer the amount of paint you think you will use into a seperate container. Do not use the paint directly from the can. Por-15 states "Do not paint directly from the POR-15 can unless you are going to use up all the paint in one session. Stir contents of can thoroughly, then dispense a quantity of POR-15 into a separate container and seal can immediately using plastic food wrap between lid and groove of can. If can is sealed metal-to-metal with paint in the groove, can will be sealed permanently. Best Method: keep groove free of paint by using coffee scoop to scoop paint from can to your container."
6.POR-15 states "If you are perspiring and a bead of sweat drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined and should be thrown out. It won't stick properly."
7. Paint the part moving quickly from top to bottom. It goes on easily. Do not apply a thick coat. The first coat should cover the part.
8. Drying time varies with temperature and humidity. I painted parts in 60F with 50% humidity and it took 6 hours to dry. Warmer or higher humidity will result in faster drying time. Dry means not tacky to the touch. POR-15 states minimum air temperature is 50F.
9. Apply a second coat. This is required. The first coast will dry a dull black color. The second coat will dry shiny black if using gloss black. The second coat really adds to the protection. A third coat is recommended by POR-15 for corrosive environments such as waterfront locations, boats and underground.
10. Paint the POR-15 treated part with your paint color of choice. UV light will dull the POR-15 finish but not effect its performance. It is recommended to paint the part with enamel or any paint of your choice to protect the POR-15 coating from UV light.

[250GT]

Thanks Peter,
That are tips when you use it on the outside(brush)
If my englisch is good enough.
I would like to use it for the inside of each tank.
Mainly to reseal the inside ,and to close little pittholes which cannot be seen.
Is this stuff compatible with the new fuels on the market with lots of alcohol? etc

C.

[peterp]

Sorry -- missed that it was the fuel tank sealer. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about the fuel tank product, but it seems extremely likely that it is made to work with alcohol-based fuels because that's what we have in 99.999% of the pumps in the US, sadly. I've sought out non-alcohol based fuel in the NJ/NY area and there are very few providers -- closest is 50 miles away.

There is some info in the reviews on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-Cycle-Tank ... por-15+gas

[Timo]

Is this stuff compatible with the new fuels on the market with lots of alcohol? etc

C.
I believe this might be your answer.
I've personally never used any "inside" tank sealer and have always advised against them because I've seen and had to deal with tanks previously coated with some and in all cases only reasonable solution was to find a new or good used replacement tank or have one made.
Once the "sealer" is inside and proves not working "as advertised", how do you remove it ?
Not only it may not seal the tank, but with all the chemicals and solvents in the fuel it might dissolve and mess up any and all fuel delivery system components (carburetors, filters, pumps, etc), but it might have ill affects for the engine.

There are lots of "magic" potions and "fix-in-the-spray-can" things made and marketed for cars, but it doesn't mean they're good or useful.
I often refer such things like this: Just because Anheuser-Busch annually spends hundreds of millions of $'s to advertise and sells millions of gallons of Buttwiser, doesn't mean its beer or anything one should ingest.

[DWR46]

Timo: Gas tank sealer can be removed using MEK solvent found at your local hardware store. It is vial stuff, but it will remove the sealer. I agree wilh all your other comments. I have seen the sealer go through the fuel filters and lines and solidify in the intake manifolds due to engine heat, then on to the valves, etc. Luckily, we had the engine apart before it was destroyed.

[250GT]

Thanks Dyke and Timo for the prof. advice,

that will be the safest way.

I do use an 250GT with an new 155 liter handmade alu tank.
this was leaking aftar two years.(vibrations)
they AL- welded it completely around and checked t it with an red penetrating fluid-see pics- and sealed it from the inside.
I do drive it since 10 years now- 80K km- without any problems, but I do not know what they use inside.
I can look inside with an medical camera( vago cam) it still looks perfect.
thats why I consider to treat it with POR 15.
Nice weekend.

Cornelis

[Edward 96GTS]

is putting in a racing style bladder an option?

[tyang]

My radiator shop uses a red coating that resembles a dark clear syrup when he coats our gas tanks. He's been coating our tanks for many years, and I have yet to see a problem. My tank was coated almost 15 years with the stuff, and luckily I have not seen a problem. We coat the tanks only if there is a risk of having pinholes or seam leaks like you guys are describing. I know there was a coating years ago that was more of a cream color that failed when alcohol became widely used in US fuels. I don't think my vendor would share where he gets his coating, and I don't think it would be fair to ask, but perhaps someone could figure it out from the description.

Good luck!

Tom

[250GT]

is putting in a racing style bladder an option?

Baffle plates in an orginal tank will prevent this Edward, I think.

best

C.

P.S
What about that"useless" bypass item ?

[DWR46]

1. Stay away from fuel bladders in street cars. They have a "life" and the foam will disintegrate after so many years and plug up the fuel system. We have ot use them in the race cars, and replace them every 10 years. Also adapting a fuel level sender can be a real pain with a bladder.

2. The "bypass" tube connecting the tank with the filler tube is an air vent to allow air in the tank to escape as the tank is filled. Otherwise, it would be difficult to completely fill the tank, if the fuel is pumped in quickly, or the car is setting at an angle.

[250GT]

Dyke, In Germany you can fixate the fuelpistel at the tank station.
when you fill up slow or quick you produce a gas cloud this goes up.
this let the fuel pistol stop and would be the signal the tank is full.
after the fuel is stabilize in he tank, you can fill up further.
this" bypass" should should NOT ended in the fillup pipe IMO.
In Germany you must reload at least 10 times to get you 100 liters of fuel.
I had this system in # 1889and#1913……. terrible

best

C.

[DWR46]

Cornilus: That fuel tank was designed for 1950s gas pumps, not for today's environmental "friendly" pumps.

[Suebian330]

Hello Cornelis,

I am using the POR tank cleaning and coating (silver color) set for inside since 6 years with no negative experience. I have treated my 90l barrel from my GT 330 with it. But not yet filled up. Before I used it on 3 motorcycle tanks. Now in operation with normal modern fuel since 5 years. Still good, no rust, no peeling off.

I put the black tank outside in the sun to dry it completely. Then started with the use of a water high pressure cleaner (Kärcher) and drained the tankseveral times until only clear water ran off without any particles. Then using the dedicated POR 15 cleaning fluid. After that for the coating treatment it was a bit hard work to shake the big barrel by hand to make sure every surface is coated. Draining the left over color after shaking you need to watch that no thick layers or nests are left. Best throu the lower drain plug as there is nearly no recessed area inside.



Grüße aus Deutschland

Dieter