rebuilding ignition switch

Moderators: 330GT, abrent

Post Reply
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

yesterday my "push to start" CEAM ignition switch wouldn't power the starter. everything else worked as it should.
I tested with OHM meter and only the push to start terminals lacked continuity when pushed. so i took it apart.

The points shown in the pics were arc'd and worn, and therefore not making contact. I tried gently cleaning them up but they are still too far away from each other..... ( the whole push distance is just a mm or 2 ).

Any thoughts?

its a non steering wheel, 4 post switch so I could probably get a bosch or alfa switch and make it work but prefer to keep this one. I have an idea to "build up" the shoulder bolt so its closer to the "point" of contact... but its made of copper so how do I do that?
Michael
IMG_8775.jpeg
IMG_8776.jpeg
IMG_8778.jpeg
IMG_8780.jpeg
IMG_8783.jpeg
IMG_8766.jpeg
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

bigger pic
Attachments
IMG_8783.jpeg
IMG_8780.jpeg
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
User avatar
330GT
Posts: 1640
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 9:30 am
Location: Seattle, WA
Contact:

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by 330GT »

If it's already failing, why not look for the correct steering wheel locking ignition switch?
IgnitionColumnLock%20(2)[1].jpg
If you do want to repair this one, you could use silver solder to build up that contact point. Silver solder has a high silver content, so much harder and requires a higher heat to melt it.
You could also get a bit of copper sheet metal, cut a small circle and solder that to the contact. If you have an old (pre-1982) penny around, that would do as it is 95% copper. A modern penny is mainly copper plated zinc.
Regards, Kerry
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605
John Vardanian
Posts: 1906
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 12:13 am
Location: San Francisco Area

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by John Vardanian »

These switches are generally simple and repairable. I had an issue with mine; one day I couldn't shut off the engine. I took it apart and found those brass hex nuts to be loose, shorting the two paddles. That's all it was. I remember it was a much bigger deal removing the switch from the dash and reinstalling it.

john
PF Coupe
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

ok great.., i wasn't sure if I could solder or "build up" the point... which was my initial thought so I am going to try that..

agree t is a uber simple design, so I guess for a 50 year old car with 163K Km and lots of starts its not surprising... I do see the hole of the locking steering column so perhaps... right now just want to get it running.!

another benefit: I played around with the 4 wires so now I can hot wire a car!
Michael
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

FIXED -rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

all fixed.
the " push" movement on these italian ignition switches is like <2mm.. so everything has to be set perfectly for the contacts to touch.
I ended up replacing the post with a new bolt and set it to the correct distance using washers under the head. took some trial and error.
works fine.

The Steering wheel lock hole is about 24mm and and distance to center of key is about 37mm.
two questions:
1) i was going to try to find some new "contact points" and replace the old--- but literally I only can find like alibaba buy 100000 type.. does anyone know where to buy a few points that I can rivet in with hammer?
2)this alfa 105 lock looks like it might work.. thoughts?
Attachments
Electrical-Contact-Rivets.jpg
alfa 105 ignition switch.jpg
alfa 105 ignition switch.jpg (14.35 KiB) Viewed 8191 times
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
Menlodon
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 12:35 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by Menlodon »

I had the same start problem and came up with the same solution. However I had an additional problem. The middle (feed) finger would move away from its contact when pushing the start button, making it extermely difficult to start the engine. Reshaping the finger fixed that.
I feel the finger has lost its spring, so I plan to make new new ones. I have all the dimensions except the finger thickness. Can someone tell me the finger material thickness?
Thanks.

Don
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

Don
I am guessing as I already put mine back together.. but mine had 2 Fingers stacked on top, and the middle one has a hole in the middle of it so the plastic push rod can push on the starter contact without displacing the finger.
I am guessing each is 24 to 30 gauge in thickness... but just a guess
330GT ignition switch.jpeg
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
Menlodon
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 12:35 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by Menlodon »

Michael,
Thanks. Mine has only one thickness. But that is a start.
The fact that all power (other than start) was disonnected when in the start was pushed took me a while to find. The engine would start only when the start was released and the engine was still turning.
A big problem was flooding. Once, enough gas got into one of the mufflers, when it ignited when the engine started, it exploded, blowing the muffler completely apart - a "shot heard around the world".

One of the things I also found was that there was a lot of voltage drop through the contacts. I added relays to the circuit so the switch only had to power the relays. That made a world of difference. 12 volts actually got to the coils and electric pump.
My electric pump used to be cranky and not wanting to start sometimes. the added relay cured that problem
DSCN3303.JPG
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

I Took Kerry's suggestion-- found a used and not working Italian Bosch locking switch for cheap.. took it apart and cleaned the contacts inside and it works great... so cool- when you pull the key out, the lock pops out and engages the steering column receptacle. I will have to drill and tap a hole in the switch to match up with existing 330 GT hole location but that's no biggie.
Michael
Attachments
IMG_8857.jpeg
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
User avatar
michaelbalk330
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:28 am

Re: rebuilding ignition switch

Post by michaelbalk330 »

IMG_8856.jpeg
IGNITION SWITCH.jpeg
Michael
1967 330GT #9693
1960 190SL
1967 Ducati 350 Sebring #04783
1959 Moto Guzzi Galletto #GNR93
1973 450SL
1988 Mercedes 300CE 5 spd
Post Reply