Hi Guys,
When overhauling the 330 engine, do we need to pull the cylinder liners? How are the liners sealed to the block to prevent coolant leakage into the crankcase? I know the 308 liner has a thin cross-section o-ring that seals the bottom of the liner. There doesn't seem to be any type of seal, other than the head gasket, between the 330 liner and the block. Is it correct that the liners are wet? I know we need to keep few thousandths projection of the liner above the block's decks for sealing with the head gasket.
Thanks,
Tom
330 Cylinder Liners
330 Cylinder Liners
Tom Treue
67 330GT 2+2, No. 9129 (former owner)
67 330GT 2+2, No. 9129 (former owner)
wet head
Tom-
I have not tackled this (as yet)
but the Workshop Manual for my car (400i)
provides a lot of detail on this subject-
on this model the liners are 'wet' at the top
i.e. the Head Gaskets seal the liners
and are 'Dry' at the bottom
i.e. are pressed into the Block w/sealant
have you looked at the manual for your car?
(I am under the impression older manuals
can be somewhat lacking in detail)
I do not know what the 'pros' say
but IMHO it seems prudent to remove and re-seal liners
if one is that deep into the motor
I have not tackled this (as yet)
but the Workshop Manual for my car (400i)
provides a lot of detail on this subject-
on this model the liners are 'wet' at the top
i.e. the Head Gaskets seal the liners
and are 'Dry' at the bottom
i.e. are pressed into the Block w/sealant
have you looked at the manual for your car?
(I am under the impression older manuals
can be somewhat lacking in detail)
I do not know what the 'pros' say
but IMHO it seems prudent to remove and re-seal liners
if one is that deep into the motor
From the 330 GT shop manual:
The cylinder liners should never be removed from the cylinder block except for replacement.
The cylinder liners are inserted press fit by heating the cylinder block to a temperature of 356°F (180°C).
The top surface dimension of the liner, after the grinding operation should extend .0035 +- .0012" above that of the cylinder block in order to allow sealing space for the head gasket.
In other words, don't touch them unless they are so worn that you can't bore them out anymore.
You can download the shop manual from the 330 GT Registry (http://www.parrotbyte.com/330GTRegistry). Just click on Resources that the top and follow the appropriate links.
Regards, Kerry
The cylinder liners should never be removed from the cylinder block except for replacement.
The cylinder liners are inserted press fit by heating the cylinder block to a temperature of 356°F (180°C).
The top surface dimension of the liner, after the grinding operation should extend .0035 +- .0012" above that of the cylinder block in order to allow sealing space for the head gasket.
In other words, don't touch them unless they are so worn that you can't bore them out anymore.
You can download the shop manual from the 330 GT Registry (http://www.parrotbyte.com/330GTRegistry). Just click on Resources that the top and follow the appropriate links.
Regards, Kerry
Wrong Wrong Wrong !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't worry what the 330 manual says. It is everyday practice by the guys who have been working on these cars forever to PULL LINERS
You MUST clean out all the sediment behind the liners and check corrosion
I Know of a Boxer(a lot newer car than a 330) that was honed and re-assembled only to have water piss out the exhaust-- When stripped down again (real cheap) and liners pulled, it was found that although the honed surface of the bore looked perfect, there were tiny pin holes (invisible) thru to the water jacket which was severely corroded on the outside.
This whole process also allows you to bore 1/2 mm oversise and put in some nice hi- comp pistons!!!!!!!!!!
Also the liners should just tap gently in very easily with block at 70 degrees. you do not have to heat excessively -- just do a few liners at a time then gently warm the block again in an oven or a large flame
Regards Howard
I dont know about US, but here(Australia) the fuel quality allows us to go at least 10:4 /1 which gives a SIGNIFIGANT power increase.
Don't worry what the 330 manual says. It is everyday practice by the guys who have been working on these cars forever to PULL LINERS
You MUST clean out all the sediment behind the liners and check corrosion
I Know of a Boxer(a lot newer car than a 330) that was honed and re-assembled only to have water piss out the exhaust-- When stripped down again (real cheap) and liners pulled, it was found that although the honed surface of the bore looked perfect, there were tiny pin holes (invisible) thru to the water jacket which was severely corroded on the outside.
This whole process also allows you to bore 1/2 mm oversise and put in some nice hi- comp pistons!!!!!!!!!!
Also the liners should just tap gently in very easily with block at 70 degrees. you do not have to heat excessively -- just do a few liners at a time then gently warm the block again in an oven or a large flame
Regards Howard
I dont know about US, but here(Australia) the fuel quality allows us to go at least 10:4 /1 which gives a SIGNIFIGANT power increase.