Black Oxiding

[John Vardanian]

Has anyone tried the black oxiding kits offered by various suppliers like Eastwood? Any comments.

john

[a57oval]

I have used the Black oxide kit from Eastwood. The kit was enough to do about 1 1/2 cars worth of hardware. I glass bead blasted all of the hardware then dipped it in the blackening solution then the wax. The blackening solution worked perfect as long as the parts were spotless. I would suggest going straight from the blast cabinet to the solution. Don't let the hardware sit around and flash rust. Then on to the wax. They looked absolutely wonderfull. Problem was that after the wax wore off they rusted and looked terrible. If I were to use the system again I would use some sort of sealer that was much more permanent than wax. Maybe Flat clear in a poof can? Overall a good product assuming you can seal them and make the sealer last.

A side note; For the time that I spent blasting and dipping I could have had them professionally done and been ahead. The next time I need to do a batch I will check about corosion resistance with the local plater then go from there.

Hope this helps,
Peter

[Chris Coios]

John,

I have used these cold applied black kits and the results are initially ok, but you must keep the piece oiled and the longevity is marginal as Peter notes in his reply. A true industrial process black oxide finish is far superior and vastly more durable, again oiled. If you have a military specification or electronics industrial plater in your area, the cost is modest for a batch, especially if you prepare the lot yourself. Take photos and give a photo inventory and count to the plater, with a copy for yourself - especially important for unusual hardware that you would have to make. A plater will be more willing to do small orders if the material is nicely prepared.

Glass bead blasting is the best preparation, I believe. At modest pressure of 60 to 70 lbs max., without excessively concentration the blast stream, you will have a nice clean satin finish. Pits exposed are due to the rust oxide going away where the rust already ate the metal and there is little to do about this. Rinse the hardware in a denatured alchohol bath - shake it around - this will loosen any glass bead residue and absorb any moisture, drying fast. The plater will then only need a quick alkaline bath to remove invisible trace rust prior to finishing. (Another hardware thread comments on wire brush preparation, but I suggest that this generally takes off the loose stuff and just burnishes the remaining rust - it can scratch up the hardware - the plater will blast the hardware anyway or have to use an aggressive chemical to remove the rust.)

Chris

[John Vardanian]

Chris and Peter,

Thanks very much for sharing your experiences. I think I will go the professional route.

Once again this site proved its usefulness.

john