that is something that I never considered:
that the original Brake Pads may be too HARD-
well suited to high speed runs down the Autostrade
but unresponsive around town
certainly my brakes seem to work best when fully warmed up
and really tromped on
maybe a softer pad compound
would be better suited for more 'casual' useage
this bears experimentation
I will invesitgate availability next time a Pad change is indicated
____________________
on another note:
I read something about inadequate Brake Booster Vacuum
(on a 308 site)
and they suggested checking the One-Way (Check) Valve
between the Vacuum Source and the Brake Booster
(my car appears to have (2) btw)
to make sure it is not clogged
this would make sense, as it is a Vacuum line
and is thus subject to sucking all kinds of crap out of Engine
like Oil Fumes, Condensation, etc
and if it was indeed clogged
would cause a low vacuum condition to be sure
easy enough to check (especially in my case, as i am replacing Hoses)
Valves appear to be Metal (like PCV Valves)
easy to spray out and give the 'rattle' test
Dunlop vs. Bonaldi booster/brakes
for those interested, it seems that there are 2 companies that have kits to
replace the front calipers only. alot of the info for vented conversions and rear kits was incorrect
Tech Craft in the UK sells kits for the 250/275/330 cars. they said that
they have sold quite a few for the GTB cars. they said that nobody has
complained about the original booster/master. the 4 piston caliper is by
AP Racing, a prominent engineering company that makes Formula 1
clutches and brakes. A bolt on kit with no cutting or modifying; so you
can go back to the original set up quite easily. uses the stock rotors.
about 900. pounds for the whole kit with pads and hard ware
many of you may already know, but Tech Craft explained that the stock
master is 7/8" bore and the booster is mated to that master. going to
the 1" bore, you must go to the larger companion booster! The larger
the bore, the higher the pedal will be: less pedal travel. the smaller the
bore, the longer the pedal travel.
an 1/8" difference in bore size makes a significant difference in the system. most 365GTC and all 365GT 2+2 cars have the 1" bore master.
the other company is also in the UK. i mentioned them before.
Coopercraft. i have not heard back from them, but they have a kit as
well. I do not know who supplys them with their calipers
replace the front calipers only. alot of the info for vented conversions and rear kits was incorrect
Tech Craft in the UK sells kits for the 250/275/330 cars. they said that
they have sold quite a few for the GTB cars. they said that nobody has
complained about the original booster/master. the 4 piston caliper is by
AP Racing, a prominent engineering company that makes Formula 1
clutches and brakes. A bolt on kit with no cutting or modifying; so you
can go back to the original set up quite easily. uses the stock rotors.
about 900. pounds for the whole kit with pads and hard ware
many of you may already know, but Tech Craft explained that the stock
master is 7/8" bore and the booster is mated to that master. going to
the 1" bore, you must go to the larger companion booster! The larger
the bore, the higher the pedal will be: less pedal travel. the smaller the
bore, the longer the pedal travel.
an 1/8" difference in bore size makes a significant difference in the system. most 365GTC and all 365GT 2+2 cars have the 1" bore master.
the other company is also in the UK. i mentioned them before.
Coopercraft. i have not heard back from them, but they have a kit as
well. I do not know who supplys them with their calipers
Greetings... If all else is ok in your brake system, contact Porterfield Brakes for the R4S compound. Many or our cars aren't listed in the catalog but a phone call will get you the pads and they are gentle on the rotors. One of the best things you can do for your Ferrari and yourself.
1964 330GT 5769 -the big yellow taxi 61&66 Morgan +4's Daimler SP250 Turner 950S and some other dull stuff plus a brand Mercedes C300 4matic
Hi Leo,
The brakes on my car work well, in that they have good stoppping power with moderate pedal effort. At first, I was put off by the bakes, as the pedal wasn't very linear. By that, I mean you would depress the pedal without much happening, and then a little more pedal movement brought on a lot of brake force. With a little more driving, I became use to this idiosyncracy. But, overall, the brakes work well with good stopping power.
I can't say I drive my car hard, but I have never had the brakes act like they were out of vacuum; the vacuum is only taken from the rear 4 cylinders (rear intake manifold); pedal effort and braking capability have been very consistent.
Now, as to looking at my car and confirming the booster and master cylinder models/numbers-the car is not with me presently, as it is undergoing some prep work for Monterey (minor paint touch up, some rechroming, wiper stalk repair (yikes!), blah, blah. When I see it (soon) I'll try to remember to post this info.
Regards,
Jim
The brakes on my car work well, in that they have good stoppping power with moderate pedal effort. At first, I was put off by the bakes, as the pedal wasn't very linear. By that, I mean you would depress the pedal without much happening, and then a little more pedal movement brought on a lot of brake force. With a little more driving, I became use to this idiosyncracy. But, overall, the brakes work well with good stopping power.
I can't say I drive my car hard, but I have never had the brakes act like they were out of vacuum; the vacuum is only taken from the rear 4 cylinders (rear intake manifold); pedal effort and braking capability have been very consistent.
Now, as to looking at my car and confirming the booster and master cylinder models/numbers-the car is not with me presently, as it is undergoing some prep work for Monterey (minor paint touch up, some rechroming, wiper stalk repair (yikes!), blah, blah. When I see it (soon) I'll try to remember to post this info.
Regards,
Jim
'67 330 GTS
s/n 10567
s/n 10567