Engine vibration
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- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm
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- Posts: 1206
- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm
It seems to me that you have a engine problem. Make sure that the distributors ae at the same AM42 mark at 3000 + RPM. Who cares about idle and wether they are at the AF10 mark. I have seen cars that have the carburetors tuned to flow at idle, but at anything above they are wacked out. Get a good synchrometer and check the flow at 2000 RPM making sure they are all the same. I have spent days trying to get the carbs the same on some cars, and minutes on others. Throttle shaft wear has lots to do with the ease at which they "tune in"
Make sure this is spot on before any other move. Next pull the trans, clutch and run the car. If it still vibrated check the cam timing. Doubtfull that the crank is out, the 60 degree engine is zero balanced unlike chevy V-8 which needs weight added or eliminated in key places.
Make sure this is spot on before any other move. Next pull the trans, clutch and run the car. If it still vibrated check the cam timing. Doubtfull that the crank is out, the 60 degree engine is zero balanced unlike chevy V-8 which needs weight added or eliminated in key places.
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Stephan and Pete,
Thanks for your feedback. One problem I noticed is that the offside distributor has a lot of play in the upper bearings. I can set the points and they change gap on me. The timing light shows this as well as the timing mark seems to "hop" back and forth. I need to find some bearings for it. In addition, the motor mounts are dead. I was told that this could be a problem as well as the mount looks like it does not have much give to begin with and if worn, could be transmitting a resonance right into the chassis.
Regards,
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
Thanks for your feedback. One problem I noticed is that the offside distributor has a lot of play in the upper bearings. I can set the points and they change gap on me. The timing light shows this as well as the timing mark seems to "hop" back and forth. I need to find some bearings for it. In addition, the motor mounts are dead. I was told that this could be a problem as well as the mount looks like it does not have much give to begin with and if worn, could be transmitting a resonance right into the chassis.
Regards,
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
Hi Rudy,
The rear engine mount has a bushing the usually disintergrates to the point where people don't even realize there is supposed to be one. It has a sleeve that isolates the bolt from the engine and chassis. I had mine machined out of teflon so it would be much more durable than the original.
Tom
The rear engine mount has a bushing the usually disintergrates to the point where people don't even realize there is supposed to be one. It has a sleeve that isolates the bolt from the engine and chassis. I had mine machined out of teflon so it would be much more durable than the original.
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
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Hi Tom,
The first time I saw what the mount was it sure did not seem like there was any sort of bushing in there. Not a mount that I have ever seen before. I will be replacing those soon and see what difference it makes. Your teflon mounts should make it bullet proof for your car.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
The first time I saw what the mount was it sure did not seem like there was any sort of bushing in there. Not a mount that I have ever seen before. I will be replacing those soon and see what difference it makes. Your teflon mounts should make it bullet proof for your car.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
Rudy,
Regarding the rear engine mounts, the supplemental bushing Tom refers to is I think actually part of an assembly of 5 pieces - a series of bushing, washers and metal cup (from the parts book the order of assembly is not clear). Ferrari UK parts has reproduced these pieces with numbers 10937 bushing, 10938 middle spacer, 10939 metal cover, 10940 bottom washer, 10941 support washer. I have no experience with this assembly, but I understand that it influences the height of the rear of the engine relative to the chassis and therefore the angle with the driveshaft. I also have been told that many 60's cars are missing these assemblies, tossed out or forgotten by mechanics (the classic "what's this for?"). The supplemental bushings for the rear mount must relate to outside plug 250 GT's and 330 GT's, as these bushings do not appear in the 250 GT inside-plug parts book. I do not know in detail which 4-mount engine type introduces these bushings.
Chris
Regarding the rear engine mounts, the supplemental bushing Tom refers to is I think actually part of an assembly of 5 pieces - a series of bushing, washers and metal cup (from the parts book the order of assembly is not clear). Ferrari UK parts has reproduced these pieces with numbers 10937 bushing, 10938 middle spacer, 10939 metal cover, 10940 bottom washer, 10941 support washer. I have no experience with this assembly, but I understand that it influences the height of the rear of the engine relative to the chassis and therefore the angle with the driveshaft. I also have been told that many 60's cars are missing these assemblies, tossed out or forgotten by mechanics (the classic "what's this for?"). The supplemental bushings for the rear mount must relate to outside plug 250 GT's and 330 GT's, as these bushings do not appear in the 250 GT inside-plug parts book. I do not know in detail which 4-mount engine type introduces these bushings.
Chris
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